It's probably too much information, but let me tell you anyway

Yesterday I left Chiang Rai to stop at Sukothai before getting back to Bangkok (and I just read that there are protests in the city but they are by the airport which is far from where I'll be when I get there, so no se preocupen, mami y papi). The picture above is from the famous Buddha statue at Wat Si Chum in the historical park. I was actually on my way straight to Bangkok, but then I came across a UNESCO World Heritage magazine that featured the sites in Thailand and saw that Sukothai was listed with this famous Buddha statue (and his famous long fingers), so the other night I reworked my plans to make a two night stop here.

This is from what I wrote in my journal yesterday (all that traveling to get here)-

There was no way around wasting a day of traveling. All the buses leaving from Chiang Rai to Sukothai left during the day, so I took the earliest one at 7:30 am thinking I would get to Sukothai early enough to maybe see part of the historical park. (nope!) The trip took 7 1/2 hours! (I thought it would have been 6). I am still sore from sitting down for so long. Anyway, I got to the bus station and all these tuk-tuk (motorcycle type cars) drivers came running to our bus to try and take us to our next spot, it was overwhelming. They all come at me at once asking- "where you going?" "where you go?" "That's far! Let me take you" I and learned from one of the drivers (who was trying to give me a ride but I was determined to either walk if it was close enough or pay the cheapest fare on a bus) that it was too far to walk and pointed to where we were in relation to the guest house I was trying to get to; damn, we are far, I realized. So once the crowd of newcomers from the bus took off to their next destinations, the waiting area got calm again and drivers hung out to wait for the the next batch, I mean, next bus of people. I sat there, too, waiting for the next local bus to get me closer to the guest house I was trying to get to; assuming the bus schedule was on time, the next one wouldn't come for another 45 minutes, and by this time I was exhausted. I had gotten my period earlier that morning, I was on the bus for 7.5 hours, and I was still recovering from a bad stomach bug and I had all these stomach rumblings and bad cramps- I didn't even dare to fart on the bus fearing the worse would happen....traveling is not just all beautiful scenery and spiritual moments. It's this stuff, too.

So, I sat there and thought about what to do, when another bus arrived at the platform and there went the group of drivers again, rushing to the new bus. Suddenly, I thought, hey, I can share a tuk-tuk with someone else! So there I go too, rushing to the new bus and looking for a solo traveler who would be willing to share a ride- I was going around asking (ok, I did this with only two people) "where you going?" "I'm going in that same direction, let's share a ride!" I was laughing in my head at the whole situation. I ended up sharing a tuk-tuk with a guy from Japan. So I still saved on my fare! I was so proud of my savings- but then I felt even more fortunate when the guy refused to let me pay for the ride at all, so I got the ride for free!

This morning-



I think I hopped on the local cargo bus this morning because aside from another old man, I was the only one on the bus headed for the historical park. I ended up helping unload vegetables from the bus at two stops, and finally, I did make it to the park. It was beautiful weather for cycling! Tonight I am having dinner with a couple I met at the park (they're from Chile) and tomorrow morning I take the first bus to Bangkok. My stomach is much better, too!

Tourism

I don't think there is much left in Thailand that hasn't been touched (or scarred) by tourism. It's such a double edged sword and think about the effects as I get off and on the tourist circuit. This picture is from a stop we made at an elephant camp on our way to Chiang Rai (by boat) a few weeks ago. This stop was just another way to make money which yes, I contributed to (not by posing with a snake or feeding the elephants but by giving in and buying an ice cream). My German companion at the time (Anja) and I decided to take the scenic route to Chiang Rai but we didn't want to stop at an elephant camp, but unless we chartered our own boat, we'd have to go on the one that everyone goes on, which stops at this place. The place keeps these huge snakes-





in cages and for a fee you could pose with them or buy fruit to feed the elephants. Those elephants were so hungry! They were trying to snatch up my camera and my ice cream. Only one boat leaves a day, around noon, so I don't think there are other groups feeding the elephants. It's amazing to be so up close to these massive animals and be able to touch their skin and look into their eyes...but then, with this up close encounter I can also see how the elephants' ankles have thinned out from wearing shackles for so long. It's a weird feeling.

Then there is the "spectacle" of the hill tribes in the north. Streets in Chiang Mai are lined up with tourist agencies offering trekking tours that rush you through bamboo rafting, elephant rides, hikes and an opportunity to see hill tribes. There is one in particular that is highly "advertised" and that is the Karen tribe (also referred to as "long neck" which really should be referred to as "shortend torso").



Y que crees? (as my dad would say)- and guess what? The Karen hill tribe village that those tourist agencies take you to is fake! I visited the Hilltribe Museum and Education Center in Chiang Rai and learned all these interesting things I know I would have never learned from any of those trekking tours. The Karen are native to Burma and it was a business man who brought many of the Karen to northern Thailand for the sole purpose of setting up a human (money making) zoo. I also learned that the reason for opium use and cultivation in the northern area of Thailand because it was introduced to the hill tribes by a British financial advisor to stimulate Thailand's economy, while "civilizing" and integrating them to mainstream society. I was just fascinated and disturbed by all this information at the museum and it made me realize how our own (my own) curiosity of wanting to see the villages within their native environment (or what my idea of that would be) can also contribute to their stagnation. What's the balance between preserving customs and traditions with advancements such as drainage systems, or insulation for homes? The museum also screens a 20 minute video about a couple who is in discussion with a village to set up an eco-lodge in the northern are of Burma and the questions they are faced with (what are the implications, the affects, etc.) in establishing this (I think I missed the part where the question should have been, do we even set up an eco lodge in the first place???). In return, the village would receive part of the profits and would be able to work for the lodge and they would also receive assistance with housing upgrades. It's true, I thought, so many of us would be curious to see cooking over an open fire (that is, if we aren't fortunate to see that for the holiday seasons in our own homes) or how they live in homes made of straw, but as soon as concrete walls are built, the romanticized image would be gone and tourism would decrease. Which, for what they actually financially gain from tourism, a decrease in it would not be so bad. They are a living culture, and they should also be able to advance. I thought- would I pay to enter a Native American reservation back at home? And would I expect to see find tipis everywhere? Of course not. So, why would I think of that here?

I also learned from Suwannee that the hill tribes do not hold official citizenship, so unless they have special permits, they are not allowed to enter main cities. I saw how officials insured this when Suwannee and I were on our way to Chiang Sean (northern Thailand) by bus and we stopped at a check-point. The military guards came in and stared everyone down and checked for photo IDs. They also looked for undocumented people who might have crossed from Burma or Laos. I thought- it's ok to have random check points like that? Just like in La Puente! And what was more (shocking, weird? I don't think I have the word for it) was to see how a guard came in at another check point and didn't even check for IDs but instead directly pointed at one man (very dark, indigenous looking man) and asked him for his identification. The man showed the guard some documents and after reviewing them, the guard let our bus pass. Isn't that racial profiling? That's just the way it is, Suwannee said.

Suwannee also shared that the government helps tribes by providing them with seeds and plots of land to harvest and sell vegetables (to prevent the opium cultivation). The vendors in Chiang Rai line up along the outside of the temple-



So much food for thought...

Massage at women's jail and skipping around northern Thailand

I've been skipping around cities in the northern part of Thailand and it's been nice to see so many green trees, fields, mountains and also learn more about the different indigenous populations in the area (known as hill tribes).

(I ordered an orange juice at the internet cafe I am writing from and the juice has salt! It's like when I eat oranges with salt back at home.)

Last time I wrote I think I mentioned that I had been traveling with a woman from Germany. We met in Ayutthaya (the next city I went to as I made my way north from Bangkok) and traveled together for about 10 days. We went to Chiang Mai where we celebrated the Loy Krathong festival and then we did some more sightseeing around the older part of the city. Oh! And I finally got a Thai massage! I went to a women's correction facility (women's jail) where they teach inmates vocational skills. It was really cool; I wish I knew how to speak Thai (although I wonder if I'd have the guts to ask anyway) to ask them about their experiences and how long they were there, etc. The women inmates who give the massages wear these nice burgundy uniforms and we wear these hospital-like clothes (we wear pants and loose shirts) and we are on a futon mattress on the floor. This is really helpful because it lets you bend and get in all sorts of positions without letting your street clothes get in the way- and oh my goodness! The masseuse sits on the floor and uses her entire body- her feet, legs, thighs, fingers, arms, elbows- even her chin! Oh, I cracked in so many places! She had me bent in all sorts of positions, I felt like a pretzel- and she was real strong. That was a great experience (it hurt too, but it was a good pain).

Next, my German companion and I went to Tha Ton, another small town where we stayed in this really nice bungalow right by the river! It was what I had imagined the greener side of Thailand would be like. After that we went to Chiang Rai and spent a few more days where we also took a cooking course. It was just my friend and me with the cooking instructor, Suwanee. It was nice because we went to the market and picked up all the fresh ingredients and she also pointed to all these sweet desserts wrapped in banana leaves; taking the course was worth it to learn about all these foods I would have never looked twice at (I wondered- what else am I missing out on??) We cooked green curry with chicken, stir-fried vegetables, tom yam soup and sweet bananas with fresh coconut cream (there is a stall at the market that processes coconuts into cream and milk). Ah, there's nothing better than eating good food with good company. I contributed some of my own "skills" and used the left over coconut cream and prepared some pina coladas (the cooking course took place at Suwanee's home and she had plenty of Malibu rum). The food was great and we got along real well with Suwanee who has had a pretty interesting life so far. She has been living in Europe (Holland, Paris and England) for the past 12 years but had just returned to Thailand to set up her new cooking business. She says the business is not enough to make her rich, but it's enough to keep her happy (and be her own boss!). It inspires me to think about how I can move to Mexico for a few months (or years)...

My companion and I split (she was bound for Cambodia) and the next day I joined Suwanee and took a bus to a nice small town that's along the Mekong River called Chiang Sean. It was really nice to sit by the river and see Laos right across. I rode a bicycle a few more kilometers north to see the "Golden Triangle." It is the famous point where Burma, Laos and Thailand meet and only divided by the rivers. I put the name in quotation marks because there's nothing really golden about it (it's more a tourist trap with a lot of souvenir shops) but it's still an incredible view from the top of a temple. The name is actually derived from the the opium cultivation and profits made in that area (and much more politics goes along with that story, of course). Finally, yesterday we went to another city (Mae Sai) and I crossed the border to Burma and got another 30 days on my tourist visa for Thailand. It's just a border, but honestly Burma (now officially called Union of Myanmar) felt like almost another world. Much, much more poverty, and dozens of children (carrying babies on their shoulders with shawls) asking for money; it was overwhelming walking back into Thailand and it made me think about the privilege of traveling, freely crossing borders and the privilege of a passport. Looking over to Burma from the hotel I stayed at that night (with only a river diving us) reminded me of when I've been in Ciudad Juarez or Tijuana in Mexico looking over the border to see the US; the universals of border countries- so far, yet so, so far away.

Now I'm back in Chiang Rai. It's nice because it's a familiar place now and I have a good sense of the size and orientation of the town. Tomorrow morning I go on a hike to Mae Salong. I realized I didn't even write about what I learned about the political situation of the hill tribes of northern Thailand. Ok, that's definitely for next time.

Thailand and more pictures!

From The last South Korea

I know, I haven't written in a while; I'm not on the computer long enough to write and download/post pictures (it takes a few hours!). South Korea was nice. I am happy to have met Kyoung Min and get to sight see with her. By this point I began to feel lonely and sort of out of it, so I am really, really thankful for her company. She also helped me find an outdoor sporting good store where I bought a new backpack. I was happy and feeling official again. I know that sounds dumb, but I was feeling sort of out of it and a little homeless with my small back pack and a half torn shopping paper bag (this lady even pointed to my bag at a hostel and said/asked-is that trash? I can toss it out for you). I laughed and thought, I do look pretty sad, don't I? I thought, when you're traveling and have nothing else, your backpack and belongings become real important and although I enjoyed those three weeks of carrying only a small backpack (and later a paper bag), it didn't leave me much room to buy anything I needed (like a sweater, or extra pants) or souvenier shop. Interestingly, I think buying a new backpack also helped to boost my animo (can't fully describe it in English, it boosted my energy?).

From The last South Korea

I saw many interesting sights in Korea including the set of the movie Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter and Spring. This was the main reason I wanted to visit South Korea, and the bigger reason for why I decided to begin this trip in Asia. I read in an interview with the film creator/director that he first begins with finding the location then writing the story around it. Visiting the lake and imagining the four seasons in this lake, I can see the inspiration!

Here are pictures from South Korea (including the lake where the movie was filmed and a prison-now-turned-into museum):

The last South Korea

Now I am in Thailand. I spent the first few days in Bangkok- it is crazy! It reminded me of Mexico, DF just with more motorcycles and tuk-tuks (small three wheeled motorcycles). I accidentally erased all the pictures from those first two and a half days, so I'll have to go back. Then I went to another city called Ayutthaya which used to be the capital of Thailand. Many beautiful old temples are here and it is safe and small enough to get around on your own with a bicycle. This is where I met a 41 yr. old woman from Germany. I was about to sit at this outdoor restaurant when we spotted each other and I smiled because she had a similar guidebook to the one I had. She asked me if I wanted to join her, sure! She was also traveling on her own and it was so nice to have someone to chat with- we both expressed that sentiment aloud. We agreed to sightsee for the rest of the day together and later that evening while we were having dinner we spotted another man sitting by himself and we asked if he wanted to join us, sure! He is a 43 yr. old man from Britain. So now it is the three of us. I was so amused at how we all met and connected and where we found ourselves in this particular place in time: the woman defied her job's vacation time limit and was spending some much needed vacation on her own, the man is visiting the place where he was originally going to spend with his partner for Christmas and New Year's but now is emotionally recovering from their break up (it was a very long relationship) and me, I was beginning to feel out of it and lonely from taking a long break from a completely different reality. It has been nice to travel with others and a good experience and lesson on group dynamics and my own behavior (with extended new company I remember that I actually do enjoy my solitude and independence). It's a learning lesson on compromises. I decided to take a break today and spend it catching up on emails and posting pictures. The three of us are now in Chiang Mai just in time for the Loy Krathrong festival.

From Ayutthaya and Loy Krathong Festival, Thailand

Loy Krathrong Festival is celebrated on the full moon in November each year. People release hot air lanterns to the sky and place mini lanterns in the river. It was incredible to see hundreds of lanterns go up in the sky and also moving to see the emotions on family's faces as they prayed on their lantern just before they released it. It was amazing to see all those lanterns (they looked like bright stars) and to imagine all those thoughts and prayers floating up to the full moon and reflected on the river.

Food- I wish I had more stomachs to keep eating all the delicious food! I can't get enough of Thai spicy salds, Pad Thai, fried bananas, and pinneaple juice shakes! Luckily I haven't gotten sick yet so I have a pretty good appetite and stomach to handle and try all sorts of delicious foods. So much to do and eat! I am really enjoying my time here!

Album of Thailand pictures (including festival)-

Ayutthaya and Loy Krathong Festival, Thailand