Por Bolivia

Llamas: cute to look at (and they stare right back) and good to eat. Un lomito con su respectivo arroz y salcitas. Mmm mmm.

What´s going on in Mexico?! I have a flight to el DF next month. Several countries (and my mom) are warning against traveling to Mexico and I just got a hold of a friend there that also recommends that "por nada en el mundo vaya." So I´ll have to figure out soon to see if it´s safe enough to change the flight to Guadalajara, or continue seeing more of South America (Colombia?) or just head home early (I suspect my bank account will have more say in this decision than I do); ya veremos...

Now: I flew in to La Paz early this morning (I finally decided to splurge a little after taking several overnight buses) from Santa Cruz. It was beautiful to fly over the rich green landscapes and the snake formations of rivers of Santa Cruz, and then fly over el altiplano and get an up close view of the Intilimani mountain-it was a spectacular sight! I checked into a hostel (where I´m meeting up with a Canadian couple I´ve been traveling with off and on since Rio), called home and just had some delicious rice and potato patties with some fresh squeezed orange juice on the street. Besides being a little short of breath (altitude here is about 3,600 meters above sea level), La Paz reminds me of Mexico city with houses way up on the hills and the fast-paced movement. This is Evo territory and it feels good to be here, where it feels a little less pretentious than Sucre or Santa Cruz.

I´ve been working on this blog post (paragraphs below) for a long time, and I´m still not done really summarizing (so many layers to how I´m experiencing Bolivia), so I´m just going to post what I have now...

Unfortunately I was only in Brazil, and really, only in Rio for a week, but it's been going so well in Bolivia! I've been traveling through here now for about 3 weeks and I´ve been meeting other nice travelers and seeing some beautiful landscapes…but how to summarize experiences in Bolivia without also noting the effects of colonialism, the political tension and la gente…

Entering Bolivia
I was waiting to board a night bus* from Salta to La Quiaca (border town of Argentina with Bolivia) and I noticed a funky dressed girl chatting on the phone with her dad. It was cool to see someone dressed like a backpacker and speaking Spanish (I haven't seen too many other Latino Americanos traveling por aqui). It turned out our assigned seats were next to each other- and she had bought her ticket off some man earlier that day! I asked her if she was on her way to Bolivia, she said yes she was going to meet up with a friend at the border and then head to the Salar de Uyuni (slat flats) and one string of conversation lead to another and we ended up talking for 3 hours (3 am) about school, education, US/Mexican/Argentinian cultures and societies; it was so nice to connect with someone I can call mujer. Her name is Ani and she is from Argentina, works as a nutritionist in indigenous communities and is also getting her PhD in (se me olvido, something to do with nutrition and health); I was so inspired to talk with her and listen to how much she loved what she does and how certain she is about her vocation in life.



Something else- it was nice walking with Ani through the market and passing by women that reminded us both of how our grandmothers worked en los mercados; hers selling and grinding spices and mine (my dad´s mom) selling cheese. There´s not too many people you can share those moments with...



We hung out in Villazon (the border town of Bolivia) where we walked around other mercados and ate tipica comida Boliviana. Below Ani explains how a potato is dehydrated (that video is taking for ever to upload, it´ll go up soon) and later prepared for a meal (also below is a plato de conejo falso, meaning beef.



She suggested that I should join her and her friend (Shawn) to Uyuni (I was on my way to a completely different part of Bolivia) which, from the border would be the closest area to visit. I hesitated at first because that would mean I would have to rethink my rough idea of the order of places I was going to, but we were getting along so well so why not? So I ended up taking a train with Shawn and Ani to Uyuni.

Salar de Uyuni
We got to Uyuni at about 5 am and slept for a few more hours at the train station while we waited for tour agency offices to open and book a 3 day trip to the salt flats. With that last night, it was my third consecutive night sleeping on a bus or train (this means: no shower, smelly clothes, socks, no real sleep and wondering if the lady next to you can smell you; bird baths help but it's not the same!) Below is a picture from a "Train cemetery" in Uyuni.



The trip: three days driving through incredible landscapes making you think you are driving through different worlds. There were seven of us in total (Ani, Shawn, 4 Germans working in La Paz and me). I am so glad that I did end up going with them because I was able to share emotions, feelings, impressions and take funny pictures. El Salar de Uyuni- about 12,000 square kilometers of salt flats. Can you imagine? Looking out and seeing nothing but flat salt earth and seeing the dimensions of clouds (since they're so far away!) Some time in history, this was all an ocean! Then there are areas where after it rains, the water left behind leaves a surreal mirror effect with the sky- we were lucky it recently rained and this view took my breath away.





It was sad splitting, but Ani had to go back to school and work and Shawn and I moved on to Potosi.

El Otro Lado de la Moneda (other side of the coin)
Oh, but many of these wonders and rich resources in Bolivia paid a high price. Take the city of Potosi for example...(skip this if you don't appreciate history or you've heard this one already).

The next stop was Potosi (highest city in the world at 4,060 meters above sea level; you lose breath just walking up a few steps!), a city known for its “Cerro Rico,” full of pure silver and other minerals. Background story (from Galeano, 1971): Inca leader Huayan Cápac went to this city for the curative thermal waters of Tarapaya, where he had also heard of the beautiful mountain of Sumaj Orcko. Once there, he was able to see this beautiful colorful mountain for himself. He suspected there were some precious stones set on the mountain and had miners find precious metals for new adornments to the Sun Temple in Cuzco (so they never used these metals and stones for exportation or trade). He sent miners to the mountain and the legend says that once the miners were inside they heard someone say in Quechua, “This isn't for you; God reserved these riches for those who come from afar.” The miners ran away, the excavation was abandoned and the Inca changed the name of the mountain to “Potojsi” which means “thunder, burst, explode” in Quechua. As Uruguayo writer Galeano wrote, those who “come from afar” didn't take long to arrive and in 1545 a campesino found a shiny sliver of silver on the mountain (after having to spend a night in the mountain looking for a lost llama) and shortly after “se descadenó la avalancha española” (Galeano, 1971, p. 31) (my translation-all hell broke loose).

So this mountain was rich in silver! In gold! In so many precious minerals! Potosi was one of the biggest and richest cities in all of Latin America in the 1600s and supported Spain´s (and really, as Galeano explains, helps all of Europe´s economy) for two centuries! There were over 30 churches and gambling houses in the city and fine linens, fabrics, and jewels were imported from all over the world to here in Bolivia! It´s really hard to imagine all of this while walking through those streets now, passing by the UNESCO World Heritage designation monument at a cross street (now full of tagging), noticing the outskirts of the town still unpaved and learning that miners still work in similar conditions as they did during the silver rush. Forced indigenous miners and African slaves worked in poor conditions (not to mention the already high altitude and bitter cold) in the mountain which lead to the death of millions. It made me rethink about my eargerness to find cheap silver jewelry in the area, which didn´t matter anyway since ironically, you can´t find much silver here anymore; most of it was for export.

Oh, but you´ll find plenty of that in the wealthy, colonial and conservative-anti Evo city of Sucre. The city has a meditteranean feel with it´s white and terra cotta shingles. It´s a beautiful college town (40% of the university supports this town) which is also the official capital of Bolivia where the declaration of independence was signed. Here I learned a little more about Bolivia´s colonial history and it´s "independence" (Spanish fathers overtaken by their criollo sons) and the bravery of badass Juana Azurduy.



I also took a much needed break from moving and stayed for almost a week in Sucre. It´s a small enough town that you can walk nearly every where and the mercado is great- lots of fruits (chirimoyas!), veggies and meals on the third floor for almuerzo, comida y cena. Those 5 or so days revolved around that mercado. I also stayed at a hostel with a big kitchen where one night I cooked carne molida con tomates, arroz con frijoles fritos (cocinando el aceite con un chile y cebolla for that extra kick) and I also showed travel buddies from New Zealand how to make pico de gallo y guacamole, it was delicious!

Next I went to the small town of Samaipata, the jump off point to follow La Ruta de Che, to trace some of Che Guevara´s final steps. It was incredible. I visited the school house in La Higuera where he was shot and that laundry room space where his body was washed and exposed for the media in Vallegrande. I also chatted with inspirational Cuban doctors (and great admirers of el Che) that are working at a small community clinic- medicine and supplies all courtesy of Cuba... I have many more thoughts on this route but I think this is it for now.

After this I´ll visit el Lago de Titicaca, Tihuanaco and then cross over to Peru, I will post more pictures soon. Now I´m hearing some fireworks from some demonstration not too far from here, maybe I´ll go check out what that´s all about.



I can´t say it enough- el Salar de Uyuni was the most amazing sight I had ever seen.

Citation: Las venas abiertas de America Latina by Eduardo Galeano, 1971.

Still Going

My pictures are large images so they take a long time to upload (and cost money to be on the internet).

It´s been going ok, I think I´m finally getting tired of moving around...so I´m looking forward to getting to Bolivia tomorrow and taking it easy. Money goes by fast! Especially in a place like Brazil, so I was only in Rio de Janeiro for a week, which was not my plan. I really wanted to go to the north to see more of the Afro Brazilian culture and learn more about Condomble but with all these transportation costs, I just had to make the decision and head to Bolivia sooner than I thought...so I´m not sure that a capiriña buzz (Brazilian sugar cane liquor drink) and a few Carioca (Rio locals) nalga sightings quite justify a trip to Brazil, nope, I´ll definitely have to come back...sadly, it was a cloudy day when I went to pay a visit to buddy Jesus...



...but I did get to see him the following day, with a beautiful sight of the city from the Pan de Azucar mountain.





Ipanema Beach

I´ve also loved some of the graffitti art on the walls, it´s pretty hard to miss when it seems to be almost every where.





"To acuse is easy, to understand it´s difficult, to abandon, is (my interpretation) worthless"...left me with a lot to think about...

Next I stopped in Puerto Iguazu, on the Argentinian side and oh my goodness, those waterfalls were incredible, I´m not sure how to even describe the sound and that energy that comes from all that water! It was such a beautiful park, and I was completely wiped out by the end of the day from walking and swimming.





I´m on a bus terminal now headed for Salta, Argentina, to make my way to Santa Cruz en Bolivia. Ah! Picture below is with Sasha and Netali from Israel (I met them in Thailand). They were so, so cool, down to earth, super hospitable and I enjoyed every minute of hanging out with them. It was nice to relax for a week and stare out into the Red Sea.

Pleasant surprises

Being open to making new contacts and friends has allowed me to be in places I would have never dreamed of!



Hm...

Equally, I want to describe the diving center where I am staying at now in Israel as well as my impression (and surprise) from Egypt. Where to start...

Ok, Egypt. I think I have been most impressed and surprised by what I thought I would look forward to versus what I actually enjoyed in Egypt. To be honest, the only thing I was really thinking and looking forward to were the pyramids in Giza and going down the Nile river, but this is only ancient Egypt! What about modern day people and culture? They speak Arabic and over 90% of the population is Muslim. You can hear prayers from the speakers outside mosques and most women are covered from head to toe. Most of the people I've talked with are men who are drivers, staff at hostels, guards at temples and monuments; since many women (that I saw) do not work in these areas. I felt fortunate to meet so many who were willing to share their experiences and as well as take my ignorant questions with humor, ie.-

"Are those ashes on your forehead?" (Insert Catholic upbringing/reference point here)

(Laughs and shakes his head) "No this is from years of prayer, from my forehead touching the ground."

"Oh, right."



I enjoyed my time here mainly because of the connections I made with people, but of course to actually stand in front of the Khufu pyramid (below), well, that moment was pretty amazing, too.



...I thought it was funny how I kept overhearing ..."and this was built before Jesus was born!" from a couple of tour guides.



...and then there is the town of Dahab! Who would have imagined (ok, maybe most except me) aqua marine water and incredible coral reef in Egypt? Again, all I thought I would see in Egypt were pyramids and deserts. I stayed a few days in this hippie beach town (that has turned more into a tourist resort-town attraction) where I snorkeled on the shore of the Red Sea (clearly seeing Saudi Arabia right across) and saw coral reef and fish that looked like they were taken right out of the movie Finding Nemo. There is a part of the shore where you pass memorials set on the side of a mountain of other people who have died from diving here (the current is pretty rough and it's over 300 feet deep in some areas), which is awkward just as you're about to dive into the same hole, but it was incredible!

Now I am in Israel, which was not on the itinerary, but it's great the way it worked out! I am thankful that I did return to Thailand because I got the opportunity to meet a really nice, easy-going couple from Israel. They live right on a border town of Israel (Eilat, far, far away from the Gaza strip), and they invited me to hang out at their place for a few days. Dahab is just a two hour car ride from this border so it worked out quite well. As soon as I mentioned that I would be going to Israel to other travellers, some said- are you crazy? You want an Israeli stamp on your passport? You won't be able to get into any other Muslim country! You're supporting their politics! Yeah, well, as a good friend said, as residents in the US we're sometimes supporting shitty politics, too. Anyway, politics aside, I wanted to meet up with people that gave me a really good feeling and so I went ahead with crossing the border. I literally walked to their place from the border. Their names are Netalie and Sasha and they are diving instructors. They live in a home right behind the diving center they run which is right across the road from the sea; it's beautiful and so laid back! There is absolutely nothing but rocky hills on either side of the center and you look out straight to the sea and over to Jordan. I also went diving for the first time the other day and that was also incredible (man I really need to look up some adjectives in a thesaurus). I can't even describe what I felt when I looked up at the water several feet above me. It was meditative in a way. I really had to relax, not think and focus on breathing. Once I got out of the water I wanted to go back in. Another staff member at the center said, "now you know why we love what we do," "Absolutely," I replied.

The first picture in this post and the one below are from the city of Petra in Jordan. I took a one day organized tour (when you're short on time, a one day tour with two other tourists is pretty ok) and I am really glad I visited this place. You walk for about 45 minutes through a really deep canyon which reveals this incredible memorial below. For being constructed in about 100 BC, it is in near perfect condition. I was standing in front of it, in awe, not being able to fathom the age of this- 100 Bc?!



Also on this day I lost $300 at the beginning of the tour (long story) which really tested me to either put things in perspective, or let this loss kill my day. I was so mad at myself and bummed out because at this point of the trip every penny counts but, I know that in the larger scheme of things, (and I can almost hear my dad telling me this, too) money is just money; we give it value, not the other way around and while I was standing there, I thought, I'm sure I'll remember how this took my breath away more than losing money that can come and go at any moment, so it is better to value what is in front of us because we just never know if or when we'll see it again.

Religious city Varanasi, India

I had been digesting (litterally and figuratively) experiences from India back on the island of Ko Chang in Thailand for almost the past two weeks. It was so nice to return to familiar faces and feel like I belonged somewhere for a while and of course, when you're away from any place you see the same environment just a little different. Overall, India was amazing and yes, many describe the streets as madness, but I would also add that it's a functional madness; somehow, the traffic flows, people get to the other side of the street (ok, so we're running for our lives a lot of the time), everyone litters, and there are several people cleaning up and making small change (I'm not saying it's wrong or right, this is just how I saw it). It was interesting returning to Thailand and having something to compare it to. I thought of how it will be to return home and see how I'll see my home environment, my family and friends...

Below are a few more pictures of India, mostly of Varanasi, considered a holy ancient city for Hindus and Jains. The city was built along the Ganges River (pronounced Ganga) which plays a vital role for the residents. People bathe in the river, wash clothes in the river, bathe their animals in the river, and also cremate bodies here, too. There are several ghats along the river (like piers to a beach) where religious ceremonies are practiced nightly and there are also the cremation ("burning") ghats where thousands of bodies a year are burned. Some people are opposed of watching but there are many Hindu families and observers around. Private life is so public and death is seen as just another part of life; after all, this is just one life passing and another one is reborn.

Varanasi

What's next? I have a flight for Cairo, Egypt tonight and I hope to be there for a few weeks (I still don't have an outgoing flight). After Egypt (and maybe Israel? I just met a nice couple who live close to the border with Egypt, not on the Red Sea side) I'll be headed for Rio de Janeiro, Brasil!

It happens in India

Here are pictures from the first two weeks in India- in Delhi and Rajasthan. I haven't added comments or descriptions, but I figured I'll just post this now since I haven't posted any albums of India yet (and I'm headed back for Thailand in two days!)

Delhi and the state of Rajasthan

I also met really, really nice, good people that I traveled with for a few days- three are from France and one from Spain. We met on a bus that was headed for Patna (then for a train to Darjeeling). Below left to right: Stephane, Gustavo, Virginie, and next to me, Johan. We had such good, easy going chemistry that made it so pleasant to travel together for a while. I've enjoyed meeting other people, hearing their stories, and learning more about the universals of life, despite ethnic/social backgrounds (much to my surprise).



Below is a picture from a train ride (sorry Gustavo is blocked, but hopefully you can see the arrangement of beds in the background)- there was a political party campaign and there was a man that had 5 legitimate tickets for about 20 people (with party flags and signs), but of course, the seating list was updated, and one of the seats he had was then mine but refused to move people, and I also felt bad for moving so many people, but at the same time- this man is putting multiple supporters into single beds which was also not fair for them, either...anyway, I ended up on another seat, crammed with luggage for a while with Gustavo. We made the best of it and started taking pictures and chatted with some of the passengers. Fortunately we did get our own beds about an hour or two later. Gustavo said, "Voy a ir a conquistar mi cama," and I said, "Si, para eso son buenos [Spaniards]," and we cracked up. And yes, he did conquer his seat! I don't think I'll ever forget that train ride.

Experiences that shift and shake the core...

You can have moments in India that can shake your core and have the "power to alter the way you view the world and your place in it..."- Sarina Singh, India Lonely Planet coordinating author.

My goodness, looking back to my first days in Delhi and now (about 5 weeks later) I just shake my head and smile. I have looked at an empty blog entry page twice not knowing where to begin to summarize and after my latest experience taking a 10-day meditation course, I'm even at a greater loss for words...well, here is what the course consisted of:

10-day Vipassana Meditation Course- a technique taught in India more than 2500 years ago - there are meditation centers in Washington and California, by the way!

Here's a brief overview of the technique: http://www.dhamma.org/

I had to commit to staying for the entire 10 days of the course. The course is quite disciplined and I had commit to accepting this before registering.

I also had to keep a vow of Noble silence- meaning silence of the body, speech and mind. For 10 days I could not talk to anyone else, or even make eye contact with anyone else; I was basically looking down or away all the time, it was quite strange at the beginning. Even singing would be breaking this vow! It took all I had to even quiet my mind which, I think I finally accomplished for longer periods of time on day 7 or 8. I kept all valuables (passport, money, etc) including all books and writing materials (no reading, no writing for 10 days!!!) locked away somewhere else. I was so hungry for a pen the first few days that I would get criminal thoughts when I would eye a pen in the cafeteria; it was so funny and pathetic.*

Men and women are segregated and have different dormitories. We are only together to meditate in the main hall.

For 10 days I meditated for about 10 hours a day and followed this schedule:

4:00 am Morning wake-up bell
4:30-6:30 am Meditate in the hall or in your room
6:30-8:00 am Breakfast break
8:00-9:00 am Group meditation in the hall
9:00-11:00 am Meditate in the hall or in your room according to the teacher's instructions
11:00-12:00 noon Lunch break
12noon-1:00 pm Rest and interviews with the teacher
1:00-2:30 pm Meditate in the hall or in your room
2:30-3:30 pm Group meditation in the hall
3:30-5:00 pm Meditate in the hall or in your own room according to the teacher's instructions
5:00-6:00 pm Tea break
6:00-7:00 pm Group meditation in the hall
7:00-8:15 pm Teacher's Discourse in the hall
8:15-9:00 pm Group meditation in the hall
9:00-9:30 pm Question time in the hall
9:30 pm Retire to your own room--Lights out

Sitting for this long was very, very difficult (painful) at the beginning and as the teacher explains, it takes a lot of patience, persistence and diligence. This was at the physical level, the most challenging. Even the early wake up bell was not so bad; after the third day, my body was automatically waking up...

...and this is just the course at the practical level but then there is the technique itself which went beyond what I could have ever imagined. I feel like I was introduced to a whole new way of seeing life, of how to act of how to calm my mind and reflect on many past things in life. I've definitely been put to the test since finishing the course and continuing on my travels in India and I feel different, I don't know if that sounds cheesy or what but it's true. Vipassana is a meditation technique that brought me directly to my inner physical senses- I went deeper than emotional and psychological level; to a field of mind and matter. And this, as the teacher explains, is where our deep rooted causes of misery and stress lie. It was incredible how memories from a year, two years and many years back surfaced and manifested themselves as physical good and painful sensations in my body. Sometimes I would walk out of the meditation hall dumbfounded by what I just remembered or crying from what I thought I had long ago buried (but never surpassed!). More importantly, I learned how I can heal from so many ills and truly be free and happy by observing that intense physical pain, that daily schedule and that vow of Noble silence to realize the law of nature: impermanence; everything passes from moment to moment, from moment to moment. Nothing, whether good or bad ever remains the same, anicha. I continue to practice this techniqe daily and it has really helped me feel much more at ease. It was so intense and beautiful! On day 10 we break this vow of silence and begin adjusting to talking again. We were all chatter boxes on that day talking about the things we were thinking about each other, the intense moments we experienced and how we felt overall. It was so funny to share these stories because there I was thinking I was the only one thinking certain thoughts when in reality everyone shared the same experiences. It was also funny how I spent 10 days physically very close with several people but only really got to talk with them for a few hours and now I feel like I can share with them just about anything because they went through this same experience, it's amazing.

*with this I realized just how much I write and why it is good to not have access to writing materials as this triggers the mind in so many ways! I realized what the act of writing is for me, what has it been good for, what it has not been good for and even now, I write a lot less. I remember on the 11th day when we were able to get our things back, I opened my journal, read the last entry about my pre-course anxiety ramblings and closed the journal without writing a new entry. I simply did not have words to write what I was feeling or describe what I had just gone through in those 10 days.

Now I am in Darjeeling, the "Queen of Hills" where on a clear day you see the Himalayas (which I have yet to see, but they say it's there!). I am traveling with a few other people that I met on a bus in Patna (another city) all on our way here (with an interesting 11 hour train ride). It's been so great to travel with others and listen to their stories through traveling and life. I was especially impressed with one older woman's story (she about late 50s traveling alone) where she was telling me about how her father passed away when she was 32 and how she changed her life in hopes to become something her father would have been proud of. At the end she said, "Funny thing is that, just about 5 years ago, I realized my father was proud of me just the way I was." Her story struck a personal chord with me and has stayed with me for several days. These are the moments that have truly enriched this experience for me.

Amazing what a train ride can do...

I read the last entry I wrote about my first impressions of India and I crack up; I admit it got the best of me for a while but I am really enjoying this part of the trip. I've learned to decline offers on the streets with politeness and good humor (as long as they don't follow me for a few meters I'm ok). I've learned not everyone is out to sell me something or hit on me- some people really are interested in just talking! Two days ago I took an overnight train ride from Agra (after visiting the Taj Mahal, incredible) to Varanasi which I must say (at the expense of sounding cheesy) has altered the rest of my trip through India, and the remainder of these next four months of traveling. There's something calming, soothing and meditative (is that a word?) about crossing through countrysides, having hours and hours to read and write and just think. I reflected on these past four months, the learning lessons thus far, and where I was headed for this next month in India. I think I lost sight of this running around sight seeing through the state of Rajasthan, which was beautiful and educational but something was not sitting well. I was suckered into buying something I didn't want (and that I couldn't get a refund on) back in Delhi and it was either taking this "two week" tour (which I had just completed upon leaving Agra) or walking away from the deal altogether; I figured I might as well sight see. I tried making the best of it (the sights were amazing) despite the resentment and broken spirit I had from the situation I was in. This out of all experiences I've had so far, has REALLY challenged me to just let it go, look forward and think, what can you do now? As I said, that train ride to Varanasi really allowed me to refocus and think about what I'm doing here. I also re-read a copy of the essay I wrote for the fellowship that I had glued to a journal. I knew what I had to do. I looked at all these pre-purchased train tickets that would have zipped me through the entire country, set them aside, and took out my guide book to rework the entire next month. No more Mumbai, Goa, Bengalore, Chennai and Kolkata; it was too ambitious and not in tune with what I imagined myself doing here.

What now? Well, I hope to be in Kathmandu (Nepal) within the next two days, return to India for a 10 day meditation course and end in Kolkata. It's like asking yourself what's better, eating a whole pie or savoring a slice? Yes, I'll have a slice of that pie, please.

India

I am in India now and it has been...crazy. In the end, I can only laugh, otherwise, I'll have a misearable time beating myself up for being such a sucker and falling for what other people tell me and "suggest". It hasn't been easy traveling as a solo woman; there are hardly any women on the streets (if there are, they are just passing by) and all the people working outside- from cooks, to cleaning service- are all men. My natural distrust in men is really challenging me; it's hard when there are guys telling you that the other guy shouldn't be trusted, and they all seem so sweet and nice. Well, I guess that is how the first week goes..now I've become more assertive, and, sorry to say, but I can't find a better way to put it- I've become a bitch on the streets with touts (men on the streets trying to take you somewhere, rip you off, "help you out"). Does it sound like I've been ripped off? YES...



...but then I look around, and realize- man, you're in freakin India for goodness sakes, and I just smile. I spent two nights in the desert near Jaisalmer in Rajistan and I saw a bright red sunset - and even a moon set! I danced under a beautiful full moon last night. It's not been all so bad, but it has been a challenge to really do some self-talk and not let a small aspect of tourism get in the way of really enjoying this experience and opening up to genuinely good people. Here are some snippets of what I've observed and experienced-

In Delhi, there are numerous sexologist offices (Jeanette, you can find work here!) with big billboards.

Everyone on the street honks- to let you know- get out of the way, I'm passing through and I'm not stopping- not even for you, old lady and little kids.

I think I've gotten use to the smell of dirty bathrooms, or I've learned to not smell it. I thought this the other day when I went into a stall on the side of the road (basically a hole with stuff all over) - 'hm, I bet this bathroom must have smelled a lot worse four months ago when I started traveling...'

Sample of taxi driver questions: hello, how are you? Are you married? Do you have a boyfriend? How many brothers and sisters do you have? What do you do at home? How much does that pay? It's been fun making up stories- I say I have a fisherman boyfriend in Thailand and I'm just in India for two weeks.

Of course, I have not overlooked the poverty, the children, the lack education, but that deserves a more thoughtful, insightful entry than this choppy I'm-in-a-rush one. Above and below are pictures from the desert and the fort in Jaisalmer.

Pictures of Bang Bao, Ko Chang

Finally I can share where I've been staying for over the last two weeks- and for the next two, as well!

This is the living room/deck of the house I am staying in-



and this is where we have dinner-



and where we swim when we go snorkeling-



and the sunsets and amazing colors I see-





I swear I'm not bragging or anything like that ;)

So I ended up changing my flight for the beginning of January. It was just too soon to leave Thailand! I am having so much fun in Ko Chang, with Barbara and Nui and everyone else; it's been real nice to just sit and learn to relax. So many things go through my head through out the day, including...what if I stayed here? What if I return here at the end? It's tempting...this experience, meeting so many people and seeing so many sights really makes me think about where I am with so many things and realizing that not everything is as complicated or as impossible as I'd like to believe (for my own security's sake, I think). I'm back in Bangkok for a few days to pick up my visa to India, extend my tourist visa for Thailand and fix my camera (it fell and now it doesn't focus), but then I'll go back to Ko Chang for the holidays. I'll also be meeting up with Barbara here, since she has a photo shoot for something, so maybe I'll get lucky to stick my head in and see what that's like. It's funny because there is no sign of Christmas in Bang Bao, but as soon as I returned to Bangkok- Christmas music was playing loud in the subway stations! I suddenly felt like I was jolted back to city life; back to another reality of hustle and bustle (and commercialism, of shopping, of time = money...). It's funny how we tend find a new appreciation for things when we suddenly don't have them in front of us... but I'll be back in Ko Chang in no time.

Here's an album of Bang Bao:

Bang Bao

At home

I've just about lost track of days and time. It's been two weeks since I arrived to Bang Bao pier and found Nui and Barbara's guest house. The houses, restaurants and business are all built along the pier so everything is litterally over the water on stilts. It's so amazing to wake up every morning to emerald green water and green mountains! I haven't been in any one place for this long since I started traveling (3 months today!) and I love it. I feel so safe and so comfortable with them- it's funny because I feel like I've known them for much longer and I truly, truly appreciate their friendship and how they've made me feel at home. I also like it here because of the close circle of friends they have: There's Mr. Ist (pronounced "eat"), an older skinny man who runs a tour agency made out of all sorts of wooden hand painted signs (he was just working on a new sign today). He also has dumbbells so I also visit him to get a workout. Then there's Robert (Pbird) who runs a snorkeling tour, he owns a boat and restaurant. He is so sweet and so nice! It's fun to go snorkeling with him because it feels like one big party on his boat; he does private tours so it's basically a few of us that go snorkeling and visit nearby islands and beaches. Oh, the water is so amazing! I am having a problem with my external hard drive, so I'll have to post pictures another day. Then there is PYan (we also say Mr. Policeman) who owns one of the guesthouses and is a cop. He is so quiet and shy. He reminds me so much of my dad that it almost makes me want to give the man a hug. They are all such good, respectful people. They come over the house to eat, drink and hang out just about every evening. There's always something to eat here. It just feels so homey here; like I belong somewhere. It's so nice to have this for a little while.

I also cook here! That's been really nice because everyone really appreciates and likes my food. They all say- oh, Mexican food! I crack up because of course, for me it's just plain cooking, but for them it's "Mexican food"! (I'll have to talk about my ethnic identity and representation another time). I made carne con chile and papas, rice (the way we make it) last week; the day before yesterday I made fried chicken (oh that turned out real good) and yesterday I made a ton of ceviche (oh they loved it!). The ceviche took a long time to make. Back at home we just go to the market and buy a few pounds of grounded fish; we never even see the actual whole fish. Here though, I walked to the pier with Mr. Ist, we jumped on a fishing boat and I had to pick out the fish myself (caught from yesterday afternoon). I was laughing in my head thinking- I usually don't do this- it's my mom who goes out and buys the fish (which is neatly cut into fillet)! And now here I am picking out the whole fish? I don't even know which kind of fish it is, let alone the concept of weight. But, I figured, it's a white meat, anything will cook with lime. So I picked out a long yellow barracuda and two smaller black barracuda fish (I learned what they were later). Mr. Ist helped out by cutting the fish, taking off the bones and the skin. I had to do the grounding myself with a butcher knife. We had extra guests last night for dinner and drinks and they all complimented me on the ceviche, so I felt very proud and accomplished with my meal last night. Of course, I miss my family and friends, but I don't miss my life there. It's like a social gathering every night and I caught myself the other night feeling like I've never felt farther away, but in a good way, you know? I don't even know if I'm making sense. I like walking down the pier (feels like a street with markets and businesses along the side, then you look down and remember it's all on water) and saying hi to people, knowing where to go to buy vegetables, good bread, things like that. I'm also getting a deeper understanding of Thai culture that I know I wouldn't have seen elsewhere.

Something else I have really enjoyed is living and feeling so close to nature- away from the noisy, busy city. We're on the water, which is so relaxing and peaceful. Some people have asked me- what do you do all day? What have you done so far?* I respond by saying, nothing, I've been sitting around, watching the water, observing the birds and enjoying my time. It's funny because I've even written a lot less on my journal; less and less preoccupies my head these days. Staying on the pier I pay more attention to the weather everyday- the wind, the waves, what bugs come out at night (it depends on the weather), the alignment of stars, the moon cycles; I'm just happy here. There was a full moon on Friday and it was simply beautiful; it was so nice to watch the bright moon rise over the mountains and be reflected on the water! It was such an amazing sight! The tide goes all the way out and there is no water at night and in the morning the tide is so high you would think it's going to flood over; and it's always like this on the full moon. Nature works in such incredible ways.

*[And I think of my theory of the effects of capitalism on tourists (especially those on short holidays)- we are engrossed with the idea of time = money. This is how most of us live our lives- by the clock. So if we're not doing something productive (ie., sight seeing) everyday while on vacation, it's a waste of a day, and we get caught up feeling like we haven't done anything, we haven't maximized our time in Thailand. I felt this several times along the trip, but since arriving to Bang Bao, I've really learned to relax. I am just living here, I don't have to do a tour or go out every day.]

Overall, I'm doing well and feel very safe. We have satellite tv so I can get to watch news on BBC and Aljazeera to keep up with what's going on with the world (we also have a few movie channels. I was following the news about the protests at the Bangkok airport (I have pictures of protesters putting up tires to block the entrances), and I was also aware of the attacks in Mumbai. Thank goodness I didn't have a flight scheduled around those days! I have so many pictures saved so hopefully I'll get the chance to post something soon.

So when do I leave Thailand? People ask me, so how long are you staying here? I carefully say "I have a flight scheduled for Thurday, the 18th to New Delhi," notice how I don't definitively say that I'm leaving on Thursday (yes, this Thursday). I still have the choice to postpone my flight, but I'm not sure. I am so comfortable and I love it here, but at the same time, I want to go to India and see new sights, but then again, Christmas and New Year's day is two weeks away- why would I want to leave my new friends now? Then again, I'm sure I will meet people in Delhi, but it won't be the same. See my thought process? It's every where. So, I'm still debating when I actually move on. We shall see!

On an island

Estoy muy bien. I arrived to the island of Ko Chang on Monday night- I wonder sometimes, is this just luck, or are some things predestined? I met great, great down to earth people (funny story about that) and am really enjoying myself with a pier community. This is about as much time I am on the computer these days- just enough to quickly say hi on this thing (but not enough to really reply to an email, or call anyone). Luego hablo. Did you see the smiling moon the other night? I don't know if that was all over the world or just here- but on Monday night two stars and a crescent moon made such a cute smiling face. Someone told me that this only happens once every 24 years! I took pictures, I'll see later if they come out. Ko Chang is beautiful- but it's definitely the people that have really made this part of the trip special...I'm even considering changing my flight to New Delhi to a later date, and extending my tourist visa again...we'll see.

It's probably too much information, but let me tell you anyway

Yesterday I left Chiang Rai to stop at Sukothai before getting back to Bangkok (and I just read that there are protests in the city but they are by the airport which is far from where I'll be when I get there, so no se preocupen, mami y papi). The picture above is from the famous Buddha statue at Wat Si Chum in the historical park. I was actually on my way straight to Bangkok, but then I came across a UNESCO World Heritage magazine that featured the sites in Thailand and saw that Sukothai was listed with this famous Buddha statue (and his famous long fingers), so the other night I reworked my plans to make a two night stop here.

This is from what I wrote in my journal yesterday (all that traveling to get here)-

There was no way around wasting a day of traveling. All the buses leaving from Chiang Rai to Sukothai left during the day, so I took the earliest one at 7:30 am thinking I would get to Sukothai early enough to maybe see part of the historical park. (nope!) The trip took 7 1/2 hours! (I thought it would have been 6). I am still sore from sitting down for so long. Anyway, I got to the bus station and all these tuk-tuk (motorcycle type cars) drivers came running to our bus to try and take us to our next spot, it was overwhelming. They all come at me at once asking- "where you going?" "where you go?" "That's far! Let me take you" I and learned from one of the drivers (who was trying to give me a ride but I was determined to either walk if it was close enough or pay the cheapest fare on a bus) that it was too far to walk and pointed to where we were in relation to the guest house I was trying to get to; damn, we are far, I realized. So once the crowd of newcomers from the bus took off to their next destinations, the waiting area got calm again and drivers hung out to wait for the the next batch, I mean, next bus of people. I sat there, too, waiting for the next local bus to get me closer to the guest house I was trying to get to; assuming the bus schedule was on time, the next one wouldn't come for another 45 minutes, and by this time I was exhausted. I had gotten my period earlier that morning, I was on the bus for 7.5 hours, and I was still recovering from a bad stomach bug and I had all these stomach rumblings and bad cramps- I didn't even dare to fart on the bus fearing the worse would happen....traveling is not just all beautiful scenery and spiritual moments. It's this stuff, too.

So, I sat there and thought about what to do, when another bus arrived at the platform and there went the group of drivers again, rushing to the new bus. Suddenly, I thought, hey, I can share a tuk-tuk with someone else! So there I go too, rushing to the new bus and looking for a solo traveler who would be willing to share a ride- I was going around asking (ok, I did this with only two people) "where you going?" "I'm going in that same direction, let's share a ride!" I was laughing in my head at the whole situation. I ended up sharing a tuk-tuk with a guy from Japan. So I still saved on my fare! I was so proud of my savings- but then I felt even more fortunate when the guy refused to let me pay for the ride at all, so I got the ride for free!

This morning-



I think I hopped on the local cargo bus this morning because aside from another old man, I was the only one on the bus headed for the historical park. I ended up helping unload vegetables from the bus at two stops, and finally, I did make it to the park. It was beautiful weather for cycling! Tonight I am having dinner with a couple I met at the park (they're from Chile) and tomorrow morning I take the first bus to Bangkok. My stomach is much better, too!

Tourism

I don't think there is much left in Thailand that hasn't been touched (or scarred) by tourism. It's such a double edged sword and think about the effects as I get off and on the tourist circuit. This picture is from a stop we made at an elephant camp on our way to Chiang Rai (by boat) a few weeks ago. This stop was just another way to make money which yes, I contributed to (not by posing with a snake or feeding the elephants but by giving in and buying an ice cream). My German companion at the time (Anja) and I decided to take the scenic route to Chiang Rai but we didn't want to stop at an elephant camp, but unless we chartered our own boat, we'd have to go on the one that everyone goes on, which stops at this place. The place keeps these huge snakes-





in cages and for a fee you could pose with them or buy fruit to feed the elephants. Those elephants were so hungry! They were trying to snatch up my camera and my ice cream. Only one boat leaves a day, around noon, so I don't think there are other groups feeding the elephants. It's amazing to be so up close to these massive animals and be able to touch their skin and look into their eyes...but then, with this up close encounter I can also see how the elephants' ankles have thinned out from wearing shackles for so long. It's a weird feeling.

Then there is the "spectacle" of the hill tribes in the north. Streets in Chiang Mai are lined up with tourist agencies offering trekking tours that rush you through bamboo rafting, elephant rides, hikes and an opportunity to see hill tribes. There is one in particular that is highly "advertised" and that is the Karen tribe (also referred to as "long neck" which really should be referred to as "shortend torso").



Y que crees? (as my dad would say)- and guess what? The Karen hill tribe village that those tourist agencies take you to is fake! I visited the Hilltribe Museum and Education Center in Chiang Rai and learned all these interesting things I know I would have never learned from any of those trekking tours. The Karen are native to Burma and it was a business man who brought many of the Karen to northern Thailand for the sole purpose of setting up a human (money making) zoo. I also learned that the reason for opium use and cultivation in the northern area of Thailand because it was introduced to the hill tribes by a British financial advisor to stimulate Thailand's economy, while "civilizing" and integrating them to mainstream society. I was just fascinated and disturbed by all this information at the museum and it made me realize how our own (my own) curiosity of wanting to see the villages within their native environment (or what my idea of that would be) can also contribute to their stagnation. What's the balance between preserving customs and traditions with advancements such as drainage systems, or insulation for homes? The museum also screens a 20 minute video about a couple who is in discussion with a village to set up an eco-lodge in the northern are of Burma and the questions they are faced with (what are the implications, the affects, etc.) in establishing this (I think I missed the part where the question should have been, do we even set up an eco lodge in the first place???). In return, the village would receive part of the profits and would be able to work for the lodge and they would also receive assistance with housing upgrades. It's true, I thought, so many of us would be curious to see cooking over an open fire (that is, if we aren't fortunate to see that for the holiday seasons in our own homes) or how they live in homes made of straw, but as soon as concrete walls are built, the romanticized image would be gone and tourism would decrease. Which, for what they actually financially gain from tourism, a decrease in it would not be so bad. They are a living culture, and they should also be able to advance. I thought- would I pay to enter a Native American reservation back at home? And would I expect to see find tipis everywhere? Of course not. So, why would I think of that here?

I also learned from Suwannee that the hill tribes do not hold official citizenship, so unless they have special permits, they are not allowed to enter main cities. I saw how officials insured this when Suwannee and I were on our way to Chiang Sean (northern Thailand) by bus and we stopped at a check-point. The military guards came in and stared everyone down and checked for photo IDs. They also looked for undocumented people who might have crossed from Burma or Laos. I thought- it's ok to have random check points like that? Just like in La Puente! And what was more (shocking, weird? I don't think I have the word for it) was to see how a guard came in at another check point and didn't even check for IDs but instead directly pointed at one man (very dark, indigenous looking man) and asked him for his identification. The man showed the guard some documents and after reviewing them, the guard let our bus pass. Isn't that racial profiling? That's just the way it is, Suwannee said.

Suwannee also shared that the government helps tribes by providing them with seeds and plots of land to harvest and sell vegetables (to prevent the opium cultivation). The vendors in Chiang Rai line up along the outside of the temple-



So much food for thought...

Massage at women's jail and skipping around northern Thailand

I've been skipping around cities in the northern part of Thailand and it's been nice to see so many green trees, fields, mountains and also learn more about the different indigenous populations in the area (known as hill tribes).

(I ordered an orange juice at the internet cafe I am writing from and the juice has salt! It's like when I eat oranges with salt back at home.)

Last time I wrote I think I mentioned that I had been traveling with a woman from Germany. We met in Ayutthaya (the next city I went to as I made my way north from Bangkok) and traveled together for about 10 days. We went to Chiang Mai where we celebrated the Loy Krathong festival and then we did some more sightseeing around the older part of the city. Oh! And I finally got a Thai massage! I went to a women's correction facility (women's jail) where they teach inmates vocational skills. It was really cool; I wish I knew how to speak Thai (although I wonder if I'd have the guts to ask anyway) to ask them about their experiences and how long they were there, etc. The women inmates who give the massages wear these nice burgundy uniforms and we wear these hospital-like clothes (we wear pants and loose shirts) and we are on a futon mattress on the floor. This is really helpful because it lets you bend and get in all sorts of positions without letting your street clothes get in the way- and oh my goodness! The masseuse sits on the floor and uses her entire body- her feet, legs, thighs, fingers, arms, elbows- even her chin! Oh, I cracked in so many places! She had me bent in all sorts of positions, I felt like a pretzel- and she was real strong. That was a great experience (it hurt too, but it was a good pain).

Next, my German companion and I went to Tha Ton, another small town where we stayed in this really nice bungalow right by the river! It was what I had imagined the greener side of Thailand would be like. After that we went to Chiang Rai and spent a few more days where we also took a cooking course. It was just my friend and me with the cooking instructor, Suwanee. It was nice because we went to the market and picked up all the fresh ingredients and she also pointed to all these sweet desserts wrapped in banana leaves; taking the course was worth it to learn about all these foods I would have never looked twice at (I wondered- what else am I missing out on??) We cooked green curry with chicken, stir-fried vegetables, tom yam soup and sweet bananas with fresh coconut cream (there is a stall at the market that processes coconuts into cream and milk). Ah, there's nothing better than eating good food with good company. I contributed some of my own "skills" and used the left over coconut cream and prepared some pina coladas (the cooking course took place at Suwanee's home and she had plenty of Malibu rum). The food was great and we got along real well with Suwanee who has had a pretty interesting life so far. She has been living in Europe (Holland, Paris and England) for the past 12 years but had just returned to Thailand to set up her new cooking business. She says the business is not enough to make her rich, but it's enough to keep her happy (and be her own boss!). It inspires me to think about how I can move to Mexico for a few months (or years)...

My companion and I split (she was bound for Cambodia) and the next day I joined Suwanee and took a bus to a nice small town that's along the Mekong River called Chiang Sean. It was really nice to sit by the river and see Laos right across. I rode a bicycle a few more kilometers north to see the "Golden Triangle." It is the famous point where Burma, Laos and Thailand meet and only divided by the rivers. I put the name in quotation marks because there's nothing really golden about it (it's more a tourist trap with a lot of souvenir shops) but it's still an incredible view from the top of a temple. The name is actually derived from the the opium cultivation and profits made in that area (and much more politics goes along with that story, of course). Finally, yesterday we went to another city (Mae Sai) and I crossed the border to Burma and got another 30 days on my tourist visa for Thailand. It's just a border, but honestly Burma (now officially called Union of Myanmar) felt like almost another world. Much, much more poverty, and dozens of children (carrying babies on their shoulders with shawls) asking for money; it was overwhelming walking back into Thailand and it made me think about the privilege of traveling, freely crossing borders and the privilege of a passport. Looking over to Burma from the hotel I stayed at that night (with only a river diving us) reminded me of when I've been in Ciudad Juarez or Tijuana in Mexico looking over the border to see the US; the universals of border countries- so far, yet so, so far away.

Now I'm back in Chiang Rai. It's nice because it's a familiar place now and I have a good sense of the size and orientation of the town. Tomorrow morning I go on a hike to Mae Salong. I realized I didn't even write about what I learned about the political situation of the hill tribes of northern Thailand. Ok, that's definitely for next time.

Thailand and more pictures!

From The last South Korea

I know, I haven't written in a while; I'm not on the computer long enough to write and download/post pictures (it takes a few hours!). South Korea was nice. I am happy to have met Kyoung Min and get to sight see with her. By this point I began to feel lonely and sort of out of it, so I am really, really thankful for her company. She also helped me find an outdoor sporting good store where I bought a new backpack. I was happy and feeling official again. I know that sounds dumb, but I was feeling sort of out of it and a little homeless with my small back pack and a half torn shopping paper bag (this lady even pointed to my bag at a hostel and said/asked-is that trash? I can toss it out for you). I laughed and thought, I do look pretty sad, don't I? I thought, when you're traveling and have nothing else, your backpack and belongings become real important and although I enjoyed those three weeks of carrying only a small backpack (and later a paper bag), it didn't leave me much room to buy anything I needed (like a sweater, or extra pants) or souvenier shop. Interestingly, I think buying a new backpack also helped to boost my animo (can't fully describe it in English, it boosted my energy?).

From The last South Korea

I saw many interesting sights in Korea including the set of the movie Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter and Spring. This was the main reason I wanted to visit South Korea, and the bigger reason for why I decided to begin this trip in Asia. I read in an interview with the film creator/director that he first begins with finding the location then writing the story around it. Visiting the lake and imagining the four seasons in this lake, I can see the inspiration!

Here are pictures from South Korea (including the lake where the movie was filmed and a prison-now-turned-into museum):

The last South Korea

Now I am in Thailand. I spent the first few days in Bangkok- it is crazy! It reminded me of Mexico, DF just with more motorcycles and tuk-tuks (small three wheeled motorcycles). I accidentally erased all the pictures from those first two and a half days, so I'll have to go back. Then I went to another city called Ayutthaya which used to be the capital of Thailand. Many beautiful old temples are here and it is safe and small enough to get around on your own with a bicycle. This is where I met a 41 yr. old woman from Germany. I was about to sit at this outdoor restaurant when we spotted each other and I smiled because she had a similar guidebook to the one I had. She asked me if I wanted to join her, sure! She was also traveling on her own and it was so nice to have someone to chat with- we both expressed that sentiment aloud. We agreed to sightsee for the rest of the day together and later that evening while we were having dinner we spotted another man sitting by himself and we asked if he wanted to join us, sure! He is a 43 yr. old man from Britain. So now it is the three of us. I was so amused at how we all met and connected and where we found ourselves in this particular place in time: the woman defied her job's vacation time limit and was spending some much needed vacation on her own, the man is visiting the place where he was originally going to spend with his partner for Christmas and New Year's but now is emotionally recovering from their break up (it was a very long relationship) and me, I was beginning to feel out of it and lonely from taking a long break from a completely different reality. It has been nice to travel with others and a good experience and lesson on group dynamics and my own behavior (with extended new company I remember that I actually do enjoy my solitude and independence). It's a learning lesson on compromises. I decided to take a break today and spend it catching up on emails and posting pictures. The three of us are now in Chiang Mai just in time for the Loy Krathrong festival.

From Ayutthaya and Loy Krathong Festival, Thailand

Loy Krathrong Festival is celebrated on the full moon in November each year. People release hot air lanterns to the sky and place mini lanterns in the river. It was incredible to see hundreds of lanterns go up in the sky and also moving to see the emotions on family's faces as they prayed on their lantern just before they released it. It was amazing to see all those lanterns (they looked like bright stars) and to imagine all those thoughts and prayers floating up to the full moon and reflected on the river.

Food- I wish I had more stomachs to keep eating all the delicious food! I can't get enough of Thai spicy salds, Pad Thai, fried bananas, and pinneaple juice shakes! Luckily I haven't gotten sick yet so I have a pretty good appetite and stomach to handle and try all sorts of delicious foods. So much to do and eat! I am really enjoying my time here!

Album of Thailand pictures (including festival)-

Ayutthaya and Loy Krathong Festival, Thailand